The fantastic mountain view is the main reason to come to Kazbegi. Georgia has many mountain areas to visit but if you are after jaw dropping scenery, Mount Kazbek at 5,054 metres will not disappoint. It is the third highest peak in Georgia and being a dormant stratovolcano it rises up impressively by 3,000 metres from the village below.
Which Caucasus Mountain Area Is Best to Visit – Kazbegi, Svaneti or Tusheti?
Kazbegi Weather – Best Time to Visit
Best Viewpoints and Time for Photos
How to Visit Gergeti Trinity Church
Kazbegi Hiking Trips
How to Get From Tbilisi to Kazbegi or Kazbegi to Tbilisi
Stops Worth Making Along the Military Highway
Being the most accessible of the Caucasus mountain villages from Tbilisi, Kazbegi can get busy in the Summer. However, it means that there is a good variety of accommodation from the very basic to high-end hotels such as Rooms Hotel Kazbegi.
This post will cover everything you need to know to plan your visit. You can climb to the top of Mount Kazbek but it requires a good level of fitness and acclimatisation. This trek is not covered since it is best arranged through a trekking company.
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Is It Worth Going?
When I start planning a trip the first thing I do is list the places and sights that I don’t want to miss. What convinced me that Kazbegi was worth including on our Georgia itinerary were the photos of the village with the mountain in the background (see below). For me Svaneti and Kazbegi were the highlights of the holiday. If you are at the stage of planning your itinerary then I say include them both.
Is It Stepantsminda or Kazbegi?
It is the same place! I found one area having two names very confusing when I first started researching our trip. Kazbegi is the old name of this town but it is commonly used today – so commonly used in fact that I used it for the name of this post.
Originally the village was called Stepantsminda which means “Saint Stephan”. The name was that of a Georgian Orthodox monk. He is believed to be one of the first to have constructed a shelter here.
During the Russian Empire back in the 19th Century, a local lord was in charge of what was then Stepantsminda. In return for suppressing revolutions he was promoted to an officer and took the surname Kaz Begi. The village under his control was often referred to by the same name.
Shortly after Georgia became part of the Soviet Union the town was officially named Kazbegi. However, it was named after the famous writer called Alexander Kazbegi rather than the army officer (although they were in fact related).
In 2006 the town went back to using the name Stepantsminda and today you will hear people using both names.
Which Caucasus Mountain Area Is Best to Visit?
Kazbegi – for uninterrupted views of 5,000 metre high mountains coupled with high end accommodation at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, this is the place to go. There are some good day hikes and it is possible to climb Mt Kazbek (this must be arranged in advance and should not be taken lightly). However, I think the two areas below are more focused on trekking than Kazbegi.
Svaneti – this might be controversial but in my view most villages in Georgia are not that pretty or interesting to explore. This area is one of the few exceptions. You can sense the history of local blood feuds as you walk around the villages dotted with stone defense towers. Svaneti National Park has the most famous multi-day hike in Georgia, the four-day Mestia to Ushguli hike.
Tusheti – we did not go here but were told by other hikers that the scenery is as good as in Kazbegi and Svaneti. Tusheti is less developed so on multi-day hikes you need to carry your own gear. As a result the area is best suited to more experienced hikers.
For me the mountains were the highlight of our trip and I recommend going to Kazbegi and Svaneti. They are different enough so that both are worth visiting.
How Many Days to Stay in Kazbegi Georgia
You need a minimum of two nights in my view. Three is even better and will allow you to explore more of the surrounding area. Many people go on day trips from Tbilisi but this leaves you with very little time in Kazbegi. Therefore you are unlikely to see the mountain which is often covered in clouds during the day (see below).
We loved our stay at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. If we had an extra day in Georgia this is where I would spend it.
Kazbegi Weather – Best Time to Visit
Unless you have plans to climb Mt Kazbek a visit to Kazbegi is possible at any time of year. For dry weather, July- October is your best bet. In my view September is the best month to travel to Georgia. October is also a good option unless you want to go to go hiking in Svaneti during your trip.
Temperatures are higher during the summer months giving you a slightly better chance of seeing the mountain. As discussed below, the key is getting up early and being lucky.
Winter
The road is rarely closed by snow as the Military Highway is a key import/ export route with Russia. Driving here you can see that downhill skiing is becoming increasingly popular from the amount of construction taking place.
January and February have the highest chances of snow and the coldest weather. In these months you should be prepared for sub-zero temperatures. March is a better time to go to get views and photos of the surrounding mountains covered in snow.
Spring
From April it starts to warm up. April to June can be wet and have significantly higher precipitation than other months with a nearly 50% of chance of rain.
Summer
This period gives you the best chance of seeing Mt Kazbek. Warmer weather results in fewer clouds, except for June which is still rainy. July and August, together with October, have the lowest precipitation.
The downside of the summer months is the school holiday period in Europe and the Caucasus. As a result tourists numbers and hotel prices increase.
Autumn
I think September is the best month to travel to Kazbegi and Georgia in general. The Summer holidays in Europe and Georgia are over so there are fewer crowds and the weather is still warm. You can go hiking in Svaneti and the grapes are becoming ripe in Kakheti.
October is another good month to go unless you want to do any of the longer or higher altitude treks. The days are getting shorter and temperatures are falling so higher mountain passes might have snow. October is the month with the lowest rainfall.
Where to Stay
As a result of becoming a popular tourist destination Kazbegi Georgia is full of guesthouses at various price levels. The best place to stay is Rooms Hotel Kazbegi.
Originally a Soviet era sanatorium, it continues to be a spa hotel but has had a complete renovation. Today it is of a standard where it would not look out of place in a European or North American high-end mountain resort.
The pool and saunas are free to use for hotel guests. The spa area is designed with the spectacular mountain views in mind which are visible from all angles through large folding glass doors. Treatments are on offer but we didn’t try any so I cannot comment on the quality.
I believe the terrace has the best panoramic views in the village with Mt Kazbek in the background (that is where the photo at the top of this post was taken). Even if you are not staying here you should make sure you go for a drink, lunch or breakfast. I recommend visiting while it is light so you can see the fabulous view.
It is a poplar dinner spot so go early as the best tables get taken first. Arriving late you might either have to wait or share one of the larger tables with other guests. It was unclear when we were there weather you could reserve or not.
Alpine Lounge Hotel and Restaurant located next door will probably have similar views but the price is not much lower. Have a look at both options before you book but if the price is similar, I would recommend booking Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. If it is within your budget, stay in a mountain view room.
For further information on Rooms Hotel Kazbegi read my review here.
What to Pack
The village is at an altitude of 1,750 metres so mornings and evenings are cold. In early September it was warm enough for trousers and a t-shirt in the middle of the day but the rest of the time I wore my fleece.
Bring non-hiking clothes as well as your walking gear. There are many restaurants around town and you should go for at least a drink or dinner at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi.
Since you can leave your suitcase in the hotel or guesthouse you do not need to think as carefully about what you pack as if doing the 4-day Mestia Ushguli trek in Svaneti National Park. There are some multi-day hikes in the area but most visitors do day hikes.
For the climb to the monastery you need little more than water and an extra fleece or waterproof, depending on the weather.
On longer hikes be prepared for rain as well as lower temperatures. The hike to the Gergeti glacier is a popular day hike but it is a long day. As you ascend the temperature drops and weather can change quickly so make sure you are prepared and bring both rain gear and warm clothing.
Best Viewpoints and Best Time for Photos
Mt Kazbek: In general the best time for photos is before noon since the sun shines on the mountain during this period. The question is whether you will be able to see the top. My experience was that it was only visible first thing in the morning (read more about my top tips for seeing the mountain below).
The Monastery: The two best views of the Gergeti Trinity church are:
- Viewpoint 1: First thing in the morning from high up on the opposite side of the village to the mountain you can see the yellow glow reflected from the snow cap with the black outline of the monastery in front. At Rooms Hotel Kazbegi the above photo can be taken from the terrace or your balcony when staying in a mountain view room.
- Viewpoint 2: The photo of Gergeti Trinity church with the towering mountains in the background is taken from the opposite side of the valley to the photo described in Viewpoint 1. The best view is from the hill behind the church. Continue walking towards Mt Kazbek and you cannot miss it. Photos are best taken in the afternoon when the sun is shining on the church. The later you go the fewer cars there are likely to be. This matters since unfortunately the parking lot is right next to the church and can be seen in all photos.
Top Tips for Seeing Mt Kazbek
Before visiting Kazbegi we spoke to many other travelers who had not seen the top of the mountain when they visited. Arriving in the early afternoon we found the same and the top was covered in clouds.
Waking up early the next morning the first thing I did was open the curtains. And there was the mountain and a bright blue sky! However, it did not take long before it was covered in cloud again. By the time we were halfway through breakfast all you could see were clouds above Gergeti Trinity Church.
During the two nights we stayed I found that early morning was the only time you could see the mountain in its full glory. So to have the best chance of seeing it I would highly recommend staying at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. And yes, it is worth paying for a mountain view room. This means that in the early morning all you need to do is open the curtains to (hopefully) see the mountain.
How to Visit Gergeti Trinity Church
This is the one place you must visit! I suggest a few other half and full-day trips below but in my view you cannot come all this way and not see this church.
The photo of Gergeti has become synonymous with Georgia and its location is spectacular. There are two ways of getting here – hiking or by car.
How to Visit by Hiking
I think this is the best way to get to the church. It allows you to spend as long as you want, both at the church and the different viewpoints described below.
The hike is steep. It takes 1-2 hours to climb the 420 metres up to the church. Walking down is faster, taking only 1 hour. I would recommend setting aside half a day for this trip.
The path is easy to find but maps.me is a very good app for all the hiking trails in the area. It is easy to use, just remember to download the Georgia map before leaving your hotel. The app uses the GPS on your phone for directions so there is no charge for data (its free to download the app and maps).
Hiking Directions
From the town square continue on the main road (there is only one running through town) in the direction of the Russian border. This is the same direction as taking a right when facing the mountain. After a couple of hundred metres, cross the river and walk up the hill. This is where your climbing will start and it will continue until you get to the monastery.
Walk uphill for 5 – 10 minutes and take the first left past Gergeti café. At the end of the road you get onto a dirt path. It climbs steeply up to the church, which falls in and out of view during the hike.
The church is small and although atmospheric, as with most monasteries in the region, it is best viewed from a distance. Whether you hike or get a car you should take the time to climb a little further up. The best views of the church are from a small hill behind the church. The hill is clearly visible when you stand at the church looking towards Mt Kazbek.
This is where the photos are taken of the panoramic views of the church with the soaring mountains in the background.
How to Visit by Car
The road up to the church twists and turns, climbing steeply up through the forest. It is paved so there is no longer a need for a 4×4. You can drive up in your own car or you can hire one of the taxis from the town square which are waiting to ferry tourists up to the church.
The cost of the trip depends on how good you are at bargaining but expect to pay 40-50 GEL. This price will include the 20 minute drive each way and time at the church to take some photos.
If you take this option I recommend negotiating with the driver to stop at the first parking lot on your right just after the final bend before the church. From here you see the road stretching out and the church in front of you. There is a small hill behind the parking lot which is where you can take the photos often seen of the church perched on the cliff side (shown in the photo above).
Kazbegi Hiking Trips and Other Activities
Most of what there is to do in Kazbegi is outdoors, meaning that your stay is weather dependant. When we visited we really enjoyed spending time at a nice hotel with a pool (staying at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi), having spent a few days in more basic accommodation. As a result we only made it to Gergeti Trinity church. As mentioned above, this is the one half-day trip you should not miss. If you have more time, here are a few other options for either half-day or full-day excursions:
Half-Day Hikes and Activities
Gveleti Waterfall
- The walk is about one hour and is easy. When the path splits look for a stone with a red arrow pointing to the right. This takes you to the larger of the two waterfalls. It is best to come in the morning when the sun shines on the waterfall
- A taxi from the road to where the trail starts will cost 60 GEL return including waiting time
- Tsdo village and Dariali Gorge are potential stops to add to the trip.
Hang Gliding in Gudauri
- Located 30 – 40 minutes before you arrive in Kazbegi, this is the best place to go hang gliding. Stop at the Treaty of Georgievsk Monument on your way from Tbilisi and you will be approached by people wanting to sell you a hang gliding trips every few metres
- The price is 250-300 GEL for a 25 – 30 minute flight
- We didn’t do this but were told that this is the best place to do so. Limited regulation means that anyone can sell a trip. Therefore make sure you pick a reputable agency. You would not want to do this with someone who does not know what they are doing!
Full-Day Hikes and Activities
Hike to the Gergeti Glacier
If the weather is on your side the one hike I would recommend is the Gergeti glacier hike. Our plan was to do this trek but when we looked at the weather forecast we changed our minds. We did not want to do a difficult full day hike in the rain and with limited visibility.
The hike is described as hard by everyone who has done it. In one day you will walk up and down 1,600 metres! People report taking 7-12 hours and you should make sure:
- You are acclimatised since you will climb to over 3,000 metres
- The temperature drops as you ascend so bring enough warm clothes. Weather can change quickly so be prepared. We always bring some pain killers and plasters to deal with blisters
- Bring enough food and water. You can fill water at the hut by the glacier. They do not sell food but you can buy a very expensive cup of tea or coffee
Truso Valley
- The attraction in Truso valley is the scenery with colourful mineral water springs and Abano village
- The village is small but the area does have a couple of the famous stone defense towers. Svaneti and Tusheti are by far the best places to see these towers but some can also be found in Khada Gorge. This valley has the most in the area around Kazbegi and can be added as a side trip on your drive to or from Tbilisi
- When hiking here it is recommended to bring your passport. Being on the border with South Ossetia you might meet a Georgian soldier on border patrol
- The road is rough so a 4×4 is recommended. There are two different transport options (unless you have your own rental car):
- A taxi which will cost 100 GEL return or 60 GEL one way, or
- Get the bus from Mountain Freak (described below)
Juta
- The reasons to come here are the green hills and the hiking. This is the starting point for both the Chauki pass and Sno valley hike
- The Chauki pass hike can be completed over one or two days. The one-day version takes 8-9 hours. You can use the Mountain Freak transportation detailed below to get to Juta. For the return a taxi can be organised in Rocha
- There are two different transport options (unless you have your own rental car):
- A taxi which will cost 100 GEL return or 50 GEL one way, or
- Get the bus from Mountain Freak (described below)
Mountain Freak Transportation
From April 15th to October 31st a bus service is provided to Dariali Gorge, Truso Valley and Juta. Services run every day as long as there is a minimum of three passengers.
Tickets cost 30 GEL per person return and need to be bought in person at the Mountain Freak office. The office location is 44 Alexander Kazbegi Street. This is the main road through Kazbegi and the office is in a very colourful building located a little before the bus station (coming from Tbilisi).
Tickets cannot be booked online. It is best to buy your seat at least one day in advance, especially during the busy summer months.
The timetable for the buses are shown in the table below:
| Destination | Departure 1 | Return 1 | Departure 2 | Return 2 |
| Dariali Gorge | 12.00 | 15.30 | ||
| Truso Valley | 9.00 | 16.00 | 11.00 | 18.00 |
| Juta | 9.00 | 16.00 | 11.00 | 18.00 |
How to Get From Tbilisi to Kazbegi or Kazbegi to Tbilisi
Although the distance is only 149km (93 miles) the drive takes 3 – 4 hours depending on weather and mode of transport.
The road twists and turns as you climb up the mountain. If you easily get car sick keep this in mind when choosing whether to get a taxi or your seat in a minibus.
There are three alternative ways of getting here:
Taxi or Private Car
- I think this is the best way to get here. It enables you to stop at all the places of interest along the way (described below)
- The drive time is 3 – 4 hours. When we were leaving it was so foggy you could only see a few metres in front of you. This added nearly an hour to the journey. The taxi driver had to drive very slow and it was difficult to pass the lorries driving from Russia to Georgia along the Military Highway
- Taxis will cost around 150-250 GEL to/from either Tbilisi or Gori. Ending in Kakheti will cost an additional 50-100 GEL depending on your final destination
- We relied on taxis whilst in Georgia since we were travelling on to Kakheti and Azerbaijan
- Renting a car is a good option for trips that start and end in Tbilisi. However, the road is steep and winding. Being a key import/ export route between Georgia and Russia there are many trucks on the road. Locals seem less concerned about overtaking on blind bends so drive defensively. If you are considering renting a car read our post on driving in the Caucasus
Shared Taxi
- If a private taxi is not within your budget a shared one is a good alternative to a matrushka. It gives you more leg room and better views, which is beneficial if car sickness is something you suffer from
- Shared taxis are aimed at tourists so stop at both Ananuri Fortress and the Gudauri viewpoint. Should you not want to stop here make sure you check with the driver whether a direct journey is possible
- A seat in a shared taxi costs 25 GEL per person and they leave from Didube bus station
Marshrutka / Buses From Tbilisi to Kazbegi
- Marshrutkas leave from Didube bus station which is located next to the metro station of the same name. When you exit the metro walk down the stairs and through the underpass on the right
- This is a big, hectic bus station but if you mention where you are going to anyone you meet they will point you in the right direction. Most buses have a sign in the window showing their destination in both English and Georgian
- The schedule for the Marshrutka is 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, 12pm, 1pm, 2.30pm, 3.30pm, 5pm, 6pm and 7pm every day. However, they leave when they are full so make sure you arrive no later than 30 minutes before departure. Since minibuses leave when they are full they do not really stick to the schedule
- The ticket is bought from the driver and can only be purchased in cash
- Avoid going when it is dark since the risk of an accident is much higher
- All rides have one bathroom stop. However, sometimes it is early on, sometimes quite late, so don’t drink too much
- The cost is 10 GEL per person
Marshrutka / Buses From Kazbegi to Tbilisi
- The marshrutkas to Tbilisi leave from the same place you get dropped off in Kazbegi
- There is meant to be a set timetable but I would not rely on it. There is roughly one per hour but this will depend on how many are coming from Tbilisi. Their departure times seemed to depend more on when they left Tbilisi rather than the schedule
- The return price is the same, 10 GEL per person
Group Tours
- In Tbilisi there seems to be someone selling group day trips on every corner so finding one is easy. I would not recommend this option. With a 3-4 hour drive each way you are left with very little time in Kazbegi
- Stay at least one night. In my view you should stay for two or three nights to give yourself a good chance of seeing the mountain
Stops Worth Making Along the Military Highway
Mtskhet
20km north of Tbilisi is Mtskhet which was once the ancient capital of the Eastern Georgian Kingdom. The motorway bypasses the town but a stop here can easily be added when travelling in a taxi or driving yourself.
The two main sites in the town are:
- Jvari Monastery (which means the Monastery of the Cross) – Located on a mountain top the church is visible from miles around. The photo you often see of a monastery with a river running either side is taken here. The main reason to come is for the view since there is little to see inside the church. Opening hours are 8am – 10pm every day and entry is free
- Svetitskhoveli Cathedral – The current structure dates back to the 11th Century. Legend has it that the robe of Christ is concealed within the cathedral and several monarchs are buried here. The cathedral is still in use adding to the atmosphere. Opening hours are from 8am – 10pm every day. However, there is no entry from 5pm – 8pm on Saturday and 8am – 1pm on Sunday since the church is only open for worshipers at these times. Entry is free.
I felt like I had seen enough churches by this time so we did not stop. According to the locals we spoke to the cathedral is meant to be one of the most impressive in Georgia. Mtskhet can also be combined with a day trip to Gori from Tbilisi.
Ananuri Fortress Complex
There is only one road to Kazbegi, the Georgian Military Highway, which passes this monastery. It makes a nice break on the 3 – 4 hours drive from Tbilisi or Gori. The location by the Zhinvali Reservoir gives this place a different feel to most of the other churches you will visit, with the green lake glistening in the background.
The imposing stone walls date from the 17th Century and protected the buildings from plenty of battles, revolts and even fires. Two fortress towers remain, one round and one squared. You can climb the squared tower for good views over the reservoir.
After entering the fortress walls there are two churches. It is worth a look but like most churches in the Caucasus the interior is bare. The main attraction is the location and views from a distance.
Gudauri Viewpoint
After driving through what is Georgia’s largest ski resort you get to a viewpoint on your left with a large concrete structure containing a tile mural. This is the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument from 1983. It was built to celebrate their friendship which is slightly ironic given the war that followed in the early 2000s.
The views over Devil’s Valley and South Ossetia make this a worthwhile stop on a clear day. On our way there we had good views but on our way back it was so foggy we could not even see the concrete structure from the road.
